Rasestandard og beskrivelse

Standard


Gruppe: 1
FCI rasenr: 332
FCI dato: 03.09.1999
NKK dato: 14.11.2006
TSJEKKOSLOVAKISK ULVEHUND

GRUPPE: 1
FCIs RASENR.: 332
Original: 03.09.1999 D

Rasebeskrivelse for tsjekkoslovakisk ulvehund (Ceskoslovenský Vlciak) Opprinnelsesland: Tidligere Den Tsjekkoslovakiske Republikk.
Hjemland: Den Slovakiske Republikk.
Helhetsinntrykk: Stram, over middels stor, rektangulær. Ulvelignende gjennom
kroppsbygning, bevegelser, pels, farge og maske.

Viktige proporsjoner:
Kroppslengde : mankehøyde = 10 : 9
Skalle : snutelengde = 1,5 : 1

Adferd/ temperament:
Temperamentsfull, meget aktiv, utholdende, lærevillig, rask reaksjonsevne, uredd og modig. Reservert. Meget lojal.

Hode

  • :Symmetrisk, kraftig. Danner en stump kile sett ovenfra og fra siden. Tydelig kjønnspreg.
  • Skalle: Lett hvelvet sett forfra og fra siden. Ingen tydelig pannefure.
    Tydelig nakkeknøl.
  • Stopp: Middels markert.
  • Nesebrusk: Sort. Oval.
  • Snuteparti: Rett neserygg. Tørt, ikke bred.
  • Lepper: Stramme, sorte, lukket leppefold.
  • Kjever/tenner: Sterke og symmetriske kjever. Velutviklete, jevnt plasserte tenner, spesielt hjørnetenner. Sakse- eller tangbitt. Komplett tannsett.
  • Kinn: Tørre, tilstrekkelig muskuløse, ikke spesielt fremtredende.
  • Øyne: Smale, skråstilte, ravfargete. Godt tilliggende øyelokksrender.
  • Ører: Stående, tynne, trekantete, korte (dvs ikke lengre enn 1/6 av mankehøyden). Ytterste øreansats og ytre øyekrok ligger på en linje. En tenkt loddrett linje fra ørespissen går langs hodet.

Hals:

  • Tørr, meget muskuløs, i hvile danner en vinkel mot horisontalplanet på inntil 40°. Halsen må være så lang at nesen uten vanskelighet kan berøre bakken.

    Forlemmer:
  • Helhetsinntrykk: Rette, sterke, tørre og tettstilte med lett utoverdreide poter.
  • Skulder: Forholdsvis fremskutt, muskuløs. Vinkel mot horisontalplanet ca. 65°.
  • Overarm: Meget muskuløs. Danner en vinkel mellom 120° og 130° mot skulderbladet.
  • Albue: Godt tilliggende, verken inn- eller utoverdreide. Over- og underarm danner en vinkel på ca 150°.
  • Underarm: Lang, tørr og rett. Lengden av underarm og mellomhånd ca 55% av mankehøyden.
  • Håndrot: Kraftig. Godt bevegelig.
  • Mellomhånd: Lang, danner en vinkel på minst 75° mot bakken. Lett fjærende under bevegelse.
  • Poter: Store, lett utoverdreide. Lange, hvelvete tær, sterke og mørke klør. Kraftige, elastiske mørke tredeputer.

Kropp:

  • Overlinje: Jevn overgang fra hals til kropp, lett avfallende.
  • Manke: Meget muskuløs, utpreget, men må ikke forstyrre den jevne
    overlinjen.
  • Rygg: Stram og rett.
  • Lend: Kort, meget muskuløs, ikke bred, lett fallende.
  • Kryss: Kort, meget muskuløs, ikke bred, lett fallende.
  • Bryst: Symmetrisk, meget muskuløs, romslig. Pæreformet
    avsmalnende mot brystbenet. Rekker ikke til albuene.
  • Brystbenspissen går ikke foran skulderleddet.
  • Underlinje/buk: Stram og opptrukket buklinje. Stramme flanker.
    Hale: Høyt ansatt, rett hengende. Når opphisset vanligvis hevet i
    sigdform.

Baklemmer:

  • Helhetsinntrykk: Kraftige. Parallelle. En tenkt loddrett linje fra sittebensknute
    går gjennom midten av haseleddet. Ulveklør uønsket og bør fjernes.
  • Lår: Lang, meget muskuløs. Danner mot bekkenet en vinkel på ca 80°. Stabilt og meget bevegelig hofteledd.
  • Knær: Kraftig, meget bevegelig.
  • Underlår: Langt, tørt. Meget muskuløst. Danner mot mellomfoten en
    vinkel på ca 130°.
  • Haser: Tørre, kraftige, meget bevegelige.
  • Mellomfot: Lang, tørr, står loddrett mot bakken.
  • Poter: Lange, hvelvete tær med sterke og mørke klør. Kraftige tredeputer

Bevegelser: Harmoniske; lette, lange steg, jordvinnende trav. Hode og
hals bæres vannrett. I skritt passgjenger.

Hud: Elastisk, stram uten folder, upigmentert.

Pels:

  • Hårlag: Rett, tykk tilliggende. Vinter- og sommerpels meget forskjellig. Om vinteren overveiende kraftig underull som sammen med dekkpelsen danner en tykk pels over hele kroppen. Buk, innsiden av overarmen, testikler, innsiden avørene og mellom tærne skal være dekket av pels. Tykk pels på halsen.
  • Farge: Gulgrå til sølvgrå med karakteristisk lys maske. Lys pels på undersiden av halsen og foran på brystet. Tillatt med en mørkegrå farge med lysere maske.

Størrelse og vekt:

  • Mankehøyde: Hannhunder: minst 65 cm. Tisper: minst 60 cm
  • Vekt: Hannhunder: minst 26 kg. Tisper: minst 20 kg

Feil: Ethvert avvik fra foregående punkter skal betraktes som feil. Hvor alvorlig feilen er, skal graderes etter hvor stort avviket er i relasjon til rasebeskrivelsen.

  • Tungt eller lett hode. Flat skalle.
  • -Mangel av to P1 eller begge M3 regnes ikke som feil.
  • Dersom det i tillegg til begge P1 mangler en M3, eller i tillegg til begge M3 mangler en P1, regnes det som feil.
  • Mørkebrune, sorte eller forskjelligfargete øyne.
  • Grove, høye eller lavt ansatte ører.
  • Høyt båret hals i hvile.
  • Dårlig markert manke.
  • Utypisk rygglinje. Langt kryss.
  • Lang, lavt ansatt hale, ikke korrekt båret.
  • For lite eller for mye vinklet skulder. Svak mellomhånd.
  • For lite eller for vinklet bakben, utilstrekkelig muskulatur.
  • Dårlig markert maske.
  • Kort steglengde.

Diskvalifiserende

  • Hunder som viser tegn på aggressivitet og/eller har fysiske
    feil: defekter som påvirker hundens sunnhet skal diskvalifiseres.
  • Avvikende proporsjoner.
  • Temperaments- eller gemyttsfeil.
  • Utypisk hode.
  • Manglende tenner (utover to P1 og en M3, se over).
  • Uregelmessig bitt.

OBS
Hannhunder skal ha to normalt utviklede testikler på normal plass.

Rasebeskrivelsen er oversatt fra gjeldende FCI-standard.

The standard - the uniformity of the view


The standard is the basic document that describes the characteristics and features of the breed for which it is defined. It is a written manifestation of the breeders who created the breed and in which they announce that the animal that they present to the world bears such characteristics and features that distinguish the breed clearly and definitively so the breed cannot be mistaken with any other.

By permanently changing these characteristics, the animal looses his identity and fails to be recognized as that which has been defined in the standard. These changes are affected not only by the external conditions, but also by genetic base, especially at the time when for creating the Czechoslovakian wolfdog two very different elements were used – German shepherd and European wolf. We cannot be too surprised then, that in their offspring, both characteristics of the dog and the wolf appear: the good ones but also the bad ones. Our goal - as judges, breeders and advisors of the breed – is the attempt to favour the positive characteristics, which make the animal conform to the standard. While at the same time to point at the characteristics, which do not match the standard.

The standard of the Czechoslovakian wolfdog has been developed, as well as the hybrids of the wolf and dog. The first attempt of creating the standard was in 1965 and it corresponded with the historical conditions and shape of the hybrids. Since then, the standard passed many corrections. The final standard was issued by the decision of the chairman of the Breeding club, mjr. Rosík, after the materials came back from FCI, being sent there without approval of the board of the Club.

On the final processing of the standard for FCI cooperated from the Slovak side the chairman of the club mjr. Frantisek Rosik, also Mr. Jozef Sopuch and Mr. Oskár Dóra, from the Czech side the advisor of the breed pplk. Ing. Karel Hartl. Mrs. Spanikova translated the whole standard into German. This took place at a conference in Bratislava and on June 13 1989 at the conference of FCI in Helsinki, the standard of the breed was approved under No. 332. Czechoslovakian wolfdog was then classed amongst the breeds that are joining FCI for a trial period of 10 years. In 1993, at a conference of CMKU (Czech and Moravian Kynological Union) represented by Dr. Filipova, Mrs. Ticha and the Slovak Kynological Union represented by Ing. Stefik, mjr. Rosik and Mr. Dóra, both sides agreed, that the guarantor of the breed would be Slovak Republic through the Slovak Kynological Unity.

The goal of us all is to favour the individuals that are close to being in harmony with the standard. There are many of them, but there are also individuals that deviate from the standard in some of the features of the body. If these bad features would be missed and such animals would be presented as almost perfect, we would risk the danger of damaging the breed, its next generation and the breeders themselves. To favour or point the failures and defects as positive features matching the standard would bring us to ruin. Naturally none of us wants this.

Now, let me please at least shortly to describe some of the basic morphology, highlighting the difference between Czechoslovakian wolfdog and German shepherd.

The head is the most characteristic part of the dog’s body in every breed. Here, the most typical features are centralized. At first sight, even from a few steps away, our gaze stops on the ear, which is by the size and shape typical for Czechoslovakian wolfdog. From closer we can see that the standing ear is slim, covered by fur and its size does not exceed 1/6 of the height of the dog. The ears are symmetrical, they are not pointing to the sides, and they are not soft. Simply put they are wolfish. The basic differences between the ears of GSD and CSW can be seen since the puppy age. While the Czechoslovakian wolfdog has the ears up since his 4-5 weeks of age, the ears are very little (which is a positive trait from the wolf), the ears of German shepherd will stand up between 4 – 6 months of his age. In comparison with CSW, his ears are very big and they exceed 1/6 of the height of the dog. From these reasons, the big ear is manifestation of negative effect of German shepherd to the Czechoslovakian wolfdog.

The next stop of our gaze, like it or not, are the eyes of the dog. They are beautiful and with their almond shape, slant shape and specific brown-yellow amber colour they give the head of CSW a typical wolfish look. The flow line of the outer corners of the eye is at least 1 cm higher than the flow line of the inner corners of the eye. In German shepherds, the flow line of the outer and inner corners of the eye is the same, or almost the same. Also, in the colour of the eyes there are big differences. The manifestation of the dark colour of the eyes is evidence of the negative effect of GSD. Also the untypical shape and placing, or untypical colour of the eye are clearly defects.

Next feature, which affects the typical head shape, is the correct proportion of the length of the muzzle compared to the length of the skull part. According to the standard, it should be 1:1,5. In the GSD, both these parts are the same length (1:1).

The mask marks a very important and very clear difference between the head of GSD and CSW. The mask of CSW is highlighted by the light colour on the head, lips of the upper and lower jaws, lower part of the neck and front part of the chest. Featureless mask or missing mask is another warning of greater amount of the features of German shepherd in Czechoslovakian wolfdog.

Now I will shortly mention the height of the front leg up to the elbow, and also the tail of the dog. The height of the front leg to the elbow should be 55% of the height of the dog. The height is directly affected by the height of the forearm, angle and height of the pastern. It directly affects the performance and endurance of Czechoslovakian wolfdog. It is one of the basic requirements that should not be broken, if we do not want to go several years back.

Next typical difference is the length of tail. A German shepherd’s tail is long sometimes going down to the ground it is carried with “hook” or with “curve” into a side. For a Czechoslovakian wolfdog, the correct length of the tail is to the heel ankle. To make it clear for everybody and to unify judging, a long tail is considered such one that exceeds with its black part the centre of the heel ankle. The hook or curved tail is a clear defect for everyone to see.

It is very unfortunate, when the judge “misses” one of these failures and judges the dog, as if it had no failures at all. In the mentioned cases, we do not speak about a temporary state. It is a very permanent state. The long tail will not shorten, the leg will not grow up, the eye will not turn lighter, nor will the ear shorten up.

The incorrect work and function of the judges while judging and as well as the low qualifications of the advisors of the breed and the breeders themselves are very bad for the development of the breed.

The Club of the breeders of Czechoslovakian wolfdog, as the guarantor of FCI, in the concern of the unifying the evaluation on the dog shows and bonitations, uses the bonitation card to point the failures, with which the dog can be judged as excellent, with which failures it can be judged as good etc. It is used both on dog shows and bonitations. If the other judges, advisors of the breed and breeders use the system as well, then the same dog which is judged as excellent in Budapest will be excellent also in Vienna, Berlin, Prague, Brno, Bratislava, or anywhere else. This way the unity of opinions while explaining the standard and judging the animals would be reached.

By this activity, we would make much easier and better work for all those that are occupying themselves with breeding, it’s planning and controlling.

MVDr Frantisek Rosik (Slovakia).

General information

Appearance

Both the build and the hair of the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog are reminiscent of a wolf. The lowest dewlap height is 65 cm for a dog and 60 for a bitch and there is no upper limit.The body frame is rectangular, ratio of the height to length is 9:10 or less. The expression of the head must indicate the sex. Amber eyes set obliquely and short upright ears of a triangle shape are its characteristic features. The set of teeth is complete (42); very strong; both scissors-shaped and plier-shaped setting of the dentition is acceptable. The spine is straight, strong in movement, with a short loin. The chest is large, rather flat than barrel-shaped. The belly is strong and drawn in. The back is short, slightly sloped, the tail is high set; when freely lowered it reaches the tarsuses. The fore limbs are straight, and narrow set, with the paws slightly turned out, with a long radius and metacarpus. The hind limbs are muscular with a long calf and instep.

The color of the hair is from yellow-grey to silver-grey, with a light mask. The hair is straight, close and very thick. Czechoslovakian Wolfdog is a typical tenacious canterer; its movement is light and harmonious, its steps are long.

Character and behavior
During the development of the breed the tenacity of the dogs was tested. The Czechoslovakian Wolfdogs can run a hundred-kilometer distance easily at an average speed of over 12 km/h. When seeing the wolf-like appearance of the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog, one can ask: And what about its character? How does the wolf origin, so evident on the exterior of the dog, influence its behavior? Is the breeding of such dogs difficult for the owner? Let's try to characterize these dogs in a few paragraphs. Czechoslovakian Wolfdogs develop very strong social relation not only with their owner, but with the whole family. Moreover, they represent the "privileged position" of children and let them as well as puppies do such things they would not permit from adults and dogs. They can easily learn to live besides other domestic animals which belong to the family; however, if they meet strange animals, difficulties can occur. It is vital to sub due their passion for hunting when they are puppies. The puppy should never be isolated in the kennel; it must get used to different surroundings, to traveling and so on. Bitches are easily controllable; dogs often experience a stormy growing-up.

The Czechoslovakian Wolfdog is very playful and temperamental; it learns easily. We can admire its all-around qualities rather than its specialization. However, we should not expect it should train spontaneously, the behavior of the CsV is strictly purposeful - it is necessary to find motivation for training. The most frequent cause of failure is usually the fact that the dog is tired out with long useless repetitions of the same exercise, which results in the loss of motivation. These dogs have admirable senses and are very good at following trails. They are really independent and can cooperate in the pack with a special purposefulness. If required, they can easily shift their activity to the night hours. The independent work of the pack without the necessary control of a man was the reason for their use in the army. Sometimes problems can occur during their training when barking is required. Czechoslovakian Wolfdogs have a much wider range of means of expressing themselves and in some situations barking is unnatural for them; they try to communicate with their masters in other ways. Generally, to teach CsV stable and reliable performance takes a bit more time than does to teach traditional specialized breeds.

Interbreeding dog and wolf has brought not only robustness, tenacity and strong senses, but it has also renewed old natural instincts. What's noteworthy is the vitality of the puppies and the perfect maternal behavior of the bitches. The average number of puppies in a litter in the CR was 6.90 in 1993; the average loss was only 8.5%. No litter has had to be reared without its mother since the beginning of the civilian breeding of the race. The ratio of bitches which did not conceive is slightly higher. Some of bitches rut once a year, the duration of rutting season and the time of ovulation is variable. There is just one rule for rearing puppies: The bitch knows what she is doing, so don't interfere. Your reward will be that you will be able to watch action which even cannot be shot by the best cameraman in nature. When the puppies totter to you, you will find out how close to nature you can be brought thanks to the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog.

Is the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog the breed for me?
Every owner of any breed or type of dog should be responsible, aware, and caring. The need for proper housing, medical care, food, training and socialization are just some of the basic requirements that should be understood before any person undertakes to own any dog. Unless a potential dog owner is willing and able to give these essentials, dog ownership should be delayed or even avoided altogether. To own a pet and not to provide for it´s needs is certainly cruel, neglectful, and even illegal. Because of controversy that surrounds dogs of the Wolfdog kind, potential owners of these dogs must be even more aware of there responsibilities than owners of many other breeds. There are some key points to consider about owning an CzW:

These dogs tend to be smart, alert dogs that need early, consistent training.

These dogs have been exploited for generations by people whose idea of dog ownership differs radically from most pet owners.

These dogs cannot be tied to a tree or simply be left in a kennel or the backyard. They are true lovers of people and will suffer if deprived of lots of human contact.

If you are looking for a guard dog I would suggest that u get another breed , these dogs tend to love all people to much , but could be trained to be guard dogs if u are willing to give it the time.

Socialization, training, and recreational activities
CzWs are generally inclined to be friendly. This is usually true even with dogs that have not been properly socialized around people. Still, you will want to take no chances. From the time your puppy is tiny, you should encourage friends, strangers, and neighborhood kids of all ages to pick her up and play with her. Try to make your puppy's associations with humans overwhelmingly positive. Walk your puppy through crowded public places, such as street fairs, to get her accustomed to the presence of lots of people. With this breed, human-aggressiveness is rare. However, as in all breeds, there will occasionally be a human-aggressive individual--usually, but not always, the result of backyard breeding or neglect and abuse. Owning such a dog is, to say the least, a tremendous liability.

There are various degrees and causes of human-aggressiveness in dogs. Sometimes the problem is classic dominance-aggression, and it can be nipped in the bud at an early age if you appropriately reestablish your dominance. In any case, at the first sign of a problem, you should immediately seek expert help from a behaviorist or trainer with experience specifically with this breed. The socialization process cannot begin too early. Find other responsible owners of small puppies and non-aggressive adult dogs (all inoculated, of course) and make sure to have regular (daily, if possible) periods where the dogs can get together and play. Like human beings, dogs are social creatures. They are happiest in the company of their own kind. Yet playing with other dogs is not something that a dog is born knowing how to do; it is learned through experience: by imitation a puppy learns the difference between appropriate and inappropriate behaviors. You should closely supervise your puppy in these dog play groups.

Dog play consists of two primary activities: imitation of fighting and imitation of predatory chases. To a novice dog owner, these play activities may seem much more serious than in fact they are. Dogs can take a lot of rough play with plenty of barking, play-growling and play-biting, so long as none of the dogs feels threatened. You should look to see whether the dogs are exchanging top and bottom positions and taking turns chasing each other; this is an indication that they both accept the rules of appropriate play. Ideally, you should choose large, easygoing dogs for your CzW puppy to play with. If your puppy becomes too rough for her playmate, let her know your disapproval verbally and correct her by temporarily picking her up and ending the fun. Remember, a 10-week old pup is not a monster; she can't seriously hurt her playmates.

The crucial formative period between 8 and 16 weeks is the time to socialize your Czechoslovakian Wolfdog puppy most intensively. If you wait till she is 6 months old before exposing her to other dogs, it may be too late to socialize her safely, and you will be stuck with a dog that can never let off-leash in public places.

Like socialization, basic obedience training should also begin early. With this breed, it is essential to have your dog completely under voice control. Contrary to a common misunderstanding, training will NOT "break the spirit" of an CzW. Dogs are hierarchical pack animals. Their psychological well-being depends on their knowing with certainty their exact status in the pack and on their having a definite lead to follow. This "pack mentality" is the instinct that made canines domesticable: a dog regards her human family as her pack and looks to her masters as the pack leaders. A dog that is never trained and is allowed to do anything it pleases will be perpetually anxious and confused, since this absolute freedom and the resulting uncertainty as to who is really the pack leader produces insecurity in a canine. It is mainly for this reason, and not for hunger alone, that lone wolves and lost dogs are especially unhappy; their freedom is too much for them to handle.

Once your dog is properly socialized and trained, there is no limit to the activities that you can enjoy with your dog. Having been bred for prolonged, high-intensity activity, they can run for hours and hours, and so they make great hiking or mountain-biking companions. CzWs not only enjoy lots of hard exercise, they need it. An exhausted CzW is a happy CzW.

If you won't have the time to exercise your dog regularly, you should choose another breed. You don't need a big back yard to provide you dog with sufficient exercise. You can work your dog up to 30-45 minutes daily. Be careful not to push your puppy to overexertion while her bones are still growing. Puppies should be allowed to establish their own comfortable level of exercise. Serious use of a treadmill should only begin at a year and a half or older.

Health
On the whole, the CzW are a very healthy, robust breed. As far as life span in concern

Are you the right for the Czechoslowakian Wolfdog?


Before buying a dog answer this honestly:

  • Have you owned other kind of dogs that will give you some reference point and some experience for owning an CzW?
  • Are you willing to invest time and money to search and get the right pet for you and your family?
  • Do you have the resources and the inclination to help a young puppy get the socialization, care and training it will need to grow into the best possible pet?
  • Do you have the time and space to share with a dog that will need a lot of affection, direction and attention?

A male or a female?
This is probably purely a matter of personal preference. A female of any breed is generally a little less challenging for pet owners. Male dogs of most breeds tend to be more aggressive, not that females can´t be. Unneutered males will arduously pursue females in heat and that might be quite tough and test your nerves. A male will mark his area with urine when walking him, and some people will see that as a "problem". The best thing to do is to talk to several owners and get there point of view, tell them your current situation and discuss your needs with the breeder too.

A puppy or an older dog?
The puppy will give you ample opportunity to mold it and shape it into the best pet it´s genetic makeup will allow it to be. Unlike an adult, this youngster will not have a lengthy past history (positive or negative) to forget. You can concentrate on initial training and socialization rather then on retraining and re-socialation. When a puppy is brought to a well-prepared home in addition for the puppy, the youngster can easily become an integral part of everyday activity.

Preparing your home...
There are a lot of things that you will need to think of before you bring the puppy to its new home. This little creature you soon are to bring to your home needs to be taken care of in the best possible way...

  • First you need to get all the things that may harm the pup away from it. Get down on your knees and take a look from the pups point of view.
  • It mean electrical cords that the pup may chew on, and other sharp things that may hurt the pup like neadles and stuff that it may get stuck in its throat.
  • The other aspect of this is to keep the dog from eating things you might want to keep him/her away from eating, like your shoes and things like that.
  • Keep poison (ex: rat poison) and other chemicals stored away from the puppy at a safe place.
  • - Reposition of any heavy items that could be pulled over onto a pup.
  • Block off balconies, stairwells and porches where a puppy could fall and be injured or killed.
  • Keep good fencing so it wont run out on the street and get hurt by cars or other pets.
  • toys: you will find a lot of good toys for your pup in animal shops so the pup can bite something that aint expensive to repair, its teeth will grow and itch during his first months, so it is natural for him/her to bite things to ease the itch/pain when they grow. Just remember that the CzW have powerful jaws, and all dog toys is not as good for them as they may be for other breeds - buy strong toys.

Pack behavior
The pack is the most important part of a dog´s life. It is the natural castle system or "pecking order" that dictates where each and every dog fits in. Wild dogs will form identical pack hierarchies just like wolves. The pack has a clearly defined rank ordering system with each animal at it´s own level, dominant over those below it on the ladder, subservient to those above it. The leader, identified as the "alpha" or first male, is usually the biggest, strongest, most keenly intelligent dog in the pack. All other pack members bend to the will of this leader unless they are ready to challenge him for the top spot.

Pack behavior is something your pup already has understood when it get´s to your hom. It learned it from it´s mother. The mother is always in the leader of her litter pack, but the siblings work out who is the next in line and so forth. Understanding pack behavior is crutial to training your pet. Like using denning behavior in cratetraining, pack behavior can be used to make certain that your CzW knows it´s place within the family and is content with the arrangement. To avoid problems that can occurre with any dog of any breed, you will need to show leadership. The other members of your family or house hold will be the other pack members with the dog fitting in neatly on the list. The pack is not some kind of power game everyone plays against the dog. Pack membership for a canine is as natural as any other instinctive behavior. It serves as an important ballast in the dog´s life providing the secure appropriate rank placement, and sense of belonging that dogs need. A well-adjusted , well-socialized CzW needs to understand where it fits in within it´s social universe.

You, or some other responsible human, will have to assume responsibility for seeing that this natural chain of command is instilled in your family and kept in place. You can observe pack behavior in any group of dogs. Two dogs meet for the first time. They stand rather stifflegged, often going through the sniffing ritual. Unless a fight is imminent, one dog will recognize that it is subservient to the other. The subservient dog will assume submersive demeanor and submissive things to show that it is to no threat to the dominant animal. Some of these sumersive behaviors are cringing, offering no defense, rolling over to it´s back, or even releasing small amounts of urine.